Houston, TX · Concrete Patios
Concrete Patios in Houston
Concrete patios for Houston backyards, from a simple broom-finished slab to stamped and stained patios built to shed heavy rain away from the house.
01 — What this covers
The work itself
- New patios and patio extensions
- Slabs for covered patios and pergolas
- Outdoor kitchen and grill pads
- Stamped, stained and exposed aggregate finishes
- Walkways from the patio to the yard and gate
- Fire pit and seating areas
- Removal and replacement of cracked patios
- Drainage around the patio: slope, drains and gutters
02 — Detail
Plan the patio around the water first
In Houston, a patio is also a roof over the ground next to your foundation. A slab that slopes toward the house sends every storm to the foundation; a slab that slopes away protects it. A fall of about an eighth to a quarter of an inch per foot away from the house is a common target.
Many backyards here are flat and already drain slowly after heavy rain. A new patio covers soil that used to soak up some of that water, so the water has to go somewhere else. Look at where the yard holds water today, and ask how the new slab, the downspouts and any yard drains will work together.
Where the patio meets the house, an expansion joint and a step down from the interior floor keep water from running under the door. If the slab would sit high against the wall or cover the weep openings at the bottom of the siding or brick, it needs a careful detail so water can't pond against the house.
03 — Detail
Size, shape and how you'll use it
A patio for a table and six chairs needs more room than most people expect once the chairs are pushed back. Twelve by twelve feet feels tight for dining; sixteen by sixteen or larger is more comfortable. Add space for a grill, a path past the furniture and the swing of the door.
Curves and angles cost a little more to form but often look better than a plain rectangle, especially around existing trees, beds and a pool. Every corner and curve also needs joints placed to control cracking, and a good installer plans those lines as part of the design rather than as an afterthought.
If a roof or pergola might come later, plan for it now. Posts for a covered patio usually need their own footings or a thickened section of slab under each post. Pouring a plain slab today and bolting heavy posts onto it later is a common source of cracks.
04 — Detail
Finishes for Houston sun
A broom finish is simple, grippy and inexpensive. Stamped concrete adds pattern and color, exposed aggregate shows the stone in the mix, and acid or water-based stains add mottled color to a smooth slab. Each one changes how the surface feels underfoot, how hot it gets and how slippery it is when wet.
Lighter colors stay noticeably cooler in summer than dark ones. On a patio that takes the afternoon sun, that is the difference between walking out barefoot and reaching for shoes. If you love a darker tone, consider it for the covered part and keep the open part lighter.
Decorative finishes need a sealer, and sealers need renewing every few years. A plain broom finish can be left unsealed, though a penetrating sealer helps it resist stains from grills, leaves and spring oak pollen.
05 — Detail
Building the slab
The patio area is excavated, roots and soft soil are removed, the subgrade is compacted and the forms are set to the planned slope. Rebar on chairs gives the slab strength where the clay pushes and pulls, and thickened edges help where the patio meets lawn that stays wet.
The pour is booked around the forecast. A summer pour usually starts early in the morning, and the crew keeps the surface from drying out too quickly. A sudden afternoon storm on fresh concrete can ruin a finish, so watching the radar is part of the job in Houston.
Joints are cut or tooled once the slab can take it, usually within the first day. After that the patio needs a few days before furniture goes on it and longer before anything heavy, such as an outdoor kitchen, is built on top.
06 — Detail
Replacing an old patio
Older patios often sink at the outer edge, crack into several pieces or tilt toward the house. If the slab is still in large pieces and the concrete is sound, lifting and sealing it may be all it needs. If it is broken up or badly sloped, replacement lets you fix the drainage and the size at the same time.
Removing an old patio means breaking it, loading it and hauling it away, which needs access for equipment or a lot of wheelbarrow trips. Gates, fences and landscaping near the patio affect how the job is done and what it costs, so point them out during the visit.
If the old patio was tied to the house or to a covered roof, the new slab has to be connected with care. Ask how the joint against the house will be detailed and whether any posts or footings will be disturbed.
How we work
Step by step
- 01
Call back to understand the size, the finish and how you'll use the patio.
- 02
Site visit to measure, check drainage and look at access and any existing concrete.
- 03
Written estimate with base, slope, thickness, steel, finish and any removal.
- 04
Excavation, base and forms, then the pour and finish on a day planned around the weather.
- 05
Joint cutting, curing and, for decorative finishes, sealing.
What it costs
Patio prices depend on the area, the finish, how much excavation and base work the yard needs, access for the truck or a pump, and whether an old slab has to be removed. Footings for a future roof cost less to add now than later.
Questions
Concrete Patios — asked and answered
How soon can I use a new patio?
Light foot traffic after a day or two, furniture after a few days, and heavy items such as an outdoor kitchen once the concrete has had more time to gain strength.
Should my patio be sealed?
Decorative patios need it to protect the color. A plain broom finish doesn't require it, but a penetrating sealer helps against stains and moisture.
Can a patio be poured right against the house?
Yes, with an expansion joint, the right height relative to the interior floor and a slope away from the wall.
Why does my patio hold water after rain?
It was poured flat or has settled since. A low spot next to the house should be corrected by lifting or replacing the slab, not simply left to dry.
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